The only piece that has to be done according to the diagram is the wiring between the ignition coil and capacitor: The capacitor MUST be wired between the two terminals of the ignition coil. I recommend fastening all the components to the machine first, then wiring them together after in the most convenient way. The series order of the pieces doesn't matter, and can be done however is easiest for the space available on your particular machine. The wiring of the system is somewhat flexible. These are cheap and a good tool to have around the house. While not required, it is helpful to have for troubleshooting and checking to make sure everything is wired properly. Multimeter/Ohmmeter (recommended) This is used to measure resistance and to check continuity. The way you go about wiring is a personal preference, so if you want to buy ready to use wires with alligator clips, or even solder all connections without clips that's your call. I would cut sections off a spool to the required length, then sand the insulation off the ends and attach alligator clips. Insulated Wiring + Alligator clips + Sandpaper (optional) I used 18 gauge insulated magnet wire. Flywheel Removal Tool: They sell a universal one for most small engines on various websites. My dirt bike had the hold down style so I bought a $5 toggle switch from home depot. On Off Switch: You can use the one that came with your engine as long as it's not the kind you have to hold down. I bought a generic one for about $5 off ebay. Use a 2 ohm resistor rated in the neighborhood of 100 watts of power. Resistor: This is to protect the ignition coil from receiving too much power. I used the one that was one that was part of the original ignition system on my dirt bike. (I don't know the technical specification). Capacitor: Any capacitor intended for ignition systems will work. Charging Method: See the possible methods on the last page. I bought a generic one off Amazon for about $18. They sell small ones for use in dirt bike starters, security system back up power supplies, etc. This is the lead acid type used for car batteries. 12 Volt battery: Any 12 volt battery will work. I bought this no name one off Amazon for about $15. (I guess they're not designed for a continuous 12 volts?) I found that the (older) canister type ignition coil designed for cars work for this application and don't get hot or blow up. They both literally blew up from the heat. I previously tried using two universal coils intended for small engines. Ignition coil: This needs to be a fairly heavy duty coil. Symptoms are often worsened as the engine warms up. While a stator is dying, it can produce a weak spark, causing the engine to miss or run poorly. FYI: The stator coil generates the power for the spark plug and other accessories on small engines Without a stator there would be no spark at all, meaning the engine won't run. The stator on my model happened to be discontinued, and I didn't want to buy a used one for over $100 when this particular stator is known for being weak and prone to failure. I devised this system when the stator on my Honda XR-100 got so weak that it couldn't power the spark plug, preventing the engine from running. Note that as written this system will bypass the CDI portion of your ignition system (if present) and replace it with a more traditional one. The guide is for contact breaker systems. It will work on all contact breaker point engines (old style), and some electronic controlled ignition (newer style) ones. Everything required can be purchased for under $50. This solution completely bypasses the stator by using a 12 volt battery to power the ignition system. Without a good stator, your engine will run poorly or not at all. The cost of a new stator can be hundreds of dollars.
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